Saturday, September 20, 2008

Yosemite, July 25 - 29, 2006

This is the trip that infected me with the backpacking bug.

Early in 2006 my friend Mike Sorrell was talking to a group of us about a trip he was planning to take to Yosemite. He didn't even bother to ask me if I wanted to go because I had never even hinted an ounce of interest in backpacking. But as Mike talked about his plans something inside of me started to stir. Nooo... it wasn't the Mexican dinner I had! It was this feeling of desire to get out of the city and into God's creation. It was the pull of the wild. Adventure was whispering to me, beckoning me to come. I found myself saying to Mike, "I'd be interested in going!" The words rolled out of my mouth with little hesitation. Mike seemed surprised and gave me a look like, "Yeah right Hedges... You on a backpacking trip?" I know Mike was suspicious because he spent the next 15 minutes telling me of all the "horrible" things I'd have to endure.
  • Hiking all day with a 40 - 50 pound pack strapped to your back

  • Sleeping on the hard ground, in a tent

  • Eating freeze-dried, tasteless food
  • Getting sweaty and dirty with little opportunity to clean up

  • Doing your bio-business out in nature

  • and other presumably gross and awful things
As Mike checked off each hindrance that little whisper inside my head got louder and louder. By the time he finished his effort to discourage me (actually he wasn't trying to be a discouragement - he wanted me to make sure I knew what I was getting into) the whisper was gone and that inner voice just flowed right out. "Man! I'd love to go!!" Mike responded with doubt in his tone, "OK, I'll put you on the list, if that's what you want." I smiled and shook my head in approval. That night was the start of what would become my love for wilderness hiking.

Unfortunately I did not journal during this hike so I will not have all the timing down but I hope my friends will come to my rescue and add comments to give the details missing in my account. So lets get right to it.

Tuesday, July 25, 2006
The trip to Yosemite required 2 cars, a train and two days to get seven eager hikers to the rendezvous point. The majority of us came from Southern California-
(L - R) Mike, Eric, me, Don, Mark, and Jerry.
We arrived at Bridalveil Campground the evening of July 25. The gang visited Glacier Point (picture above taken here) and then headed back to the campground for dinner and rest.


Wednesday, July 26, 2006
We woke the next morning and began to prepare for our hike. Don's brother Dave had traveled from Northern California via train to Yosemite Valley and was to meet us down in the valley. The SoCal group broke camp and headed down, parking the cars in an extended stay parking lot. We then piled our stuff in a YART (Yosemite Area Rapid Transit) bus, which made the rounds to every hotel and tourist stop in the park. Dave was waiting for us at one of the hotels. With introductions completed we settled down for a nice slow ride from the valley to our drop-off point at Tenaya Lake Trail Head, just southwest of Tenaya Lake, on highway 120.

Upon arriving at the trail head, we collected our packs from YART and prepared to go. The trail head begins as an asphalt bike lane for a few hundred feet. The asphalt ends and within a few minutes of hiking we were met with a shallow stream with rocks as our bridge. It was here that we viewed the stream flowing into a meadow and a doe and her fawn lazily grazing on mountain grass (left). The animals were not a bit phased at the presence or sounds of 7 heavily laden men trying to stay dry as they crossed the river (my shoes did not fair so well). Once we made the crossing we follow the trail until we begin switchbacks up the hill. With a pack of over 50 lbs and being totally out of shape, this part was not fun for me. It took several hours to get to the top. But I did. Eric wasn't having too much fun either as he had volunteered to carry my bear keg (a required food storage device that bears cannot get into) and he was carrying what seemed like 125 lbs of camera equipment AND his own backpack. Half way up the switchbacks the team came to his rescue and unloaded some of his stuff. Eventually I took back my bear keg. After climbing some 800 ft straight up (or so it seemed) we arrived at the top of the switchbacks. We shed our burden and bushwhacked our way to an overlook that few people have seen (west of the junction). The view was from the “backside” of Yosemite Valley looking towards Glacier Point. To the left of us Clouds Rest rose above us and just past Clouds Rest stood Half Dome. The sheer granite walls were amazing with the valley floor thousands of feet below us. The immense field of granite surrounded us and the sun reflected off of the vast display with blinding brilliance (thank you Oakley for allowing me to gaze on the beauty). We rested and eat as we took in the rawness of the scene that spread before us. (Right, Dave and I at the look out- Clouds Rest is above and left of Dave, Half Dome is the spike just above & left of Dave's head)

After awhile the group headed back to the trail and to our packs. Each one of us hoisted our camping loads onto our backs and began the last leg of our hike for the day. Taking the easterly path of the junction (Sunrise Lakes Trail) we came upon Sunrise Lake #1 and then Lake #2. This is where we made camp. The summer grass was still green and we found a place that had already been used – perfect for our group. Each one of us finding a level spot for our tents and I being banished to the farthest reaches of the camp fire due to my “loud sleeping”, AKA snoring.

I set camp and grabbed some biodegradable soap and a clean set of clothes and went to take a bath. I followed the shoreline of the lake to where the runoff spilled down the rocks. A 5 minute hike downstream and there I found this amazing natural bath tub. Cut into the granite, the water tumbled into one end of a shallow narrow pool and ran out the other side ten feet away. The granite formed a natural wide table along side the pool that allowed me to have all the things I needed (soap, towel, and clothes) within reach and still recline in the water. The day was bright and warm and the water was fresh and very comfortable. This was a great way to freshen up after a day of hiking.

That night we eat dinner, sang around the campfire (what do expect when there are 3 musicians in the group?) and spent the night searching the sky for satellites, the space station, the shuttle and falling space debris (well… it’s not really a falling star is it!)


Thursday, July 27, 2006
The group awoke to a beautiful morning and coffee was the first order of business. Mark and I brought the coffee press attachment for our Jetboil (an amazing cooking stove and I’m so glad I have it!). Mark lugged a pound of Starbucks up the hill so we were very happy campers! Our once-used grounds were “donated” to the cowboy coffee being brewed by Mike, Don and Dave. WOW! I had a cup of that and it was some tasty, strong coffee!

After breakfast the group grabbed their water bottles and some food bars and headed to Clouds Rest. We retraced our trek past Sunrise Lake #1 to the junction. There we took the westerly path to Clouds Rest. Hiking through forest and granite was awesome. But the excitement was when the trail dissolved into a pile of jumbled rocks. This was the east-side approach to the peak and the group scampered over boulders and jumped gaps as we climbed. At one point the hiker is presented with a very real danger. The ridge narrows to a group of boulders lined in a row. Here a sheer drop off on both sides of the rock made me hesitate for a second. A fall on either side would be fatal. But the rock was stable and solid so I pushed onward and upward. By lunch time we had reached the summit of Clouds Rest (9,926 ft). At this point in my hiking career this was the highest I had ever been. There were celebration, pictures and food at the top but in time we had to get back to camp.

We retraced our path back to Sunrise Lake #2 and collapsed (at least I did). After some rest I cleaned up and joined the others in making dinner. That night we enjoyed recounting our day, embracing the natural settings and a camp fire.


Friday, July 28, 2006

Another gorgeous morning awaited outside my tent but I was slow waking up. I was tired! The morning got better after my first mug of coffee. The second mug was cowboy coffee and that did the trick, even though I had grounds stuck in my teeth for the rest of the day. After breakfast it was time to break camp and load up the backpack.

The group moved out and headed up to Sunrise Lake #3 and on to Sunrise High Sierra Camp and the John Muir Trail (JMT). Our goal was to get to the base of Half Dome and this was to be an all-day hike. There were times of steep ascent and descent. There were periods of meadows and walking among thick forest groves. The vastness of the wilderness made me feel very small and the beauty made me thankful for being alive. We ended the hike at the Half Dome/JMT junction. There we found a place to camp just off of the trail but near a chilled stream. A doe grazed along side the camp as we set up for dinner. But the deer was not the only visitor joining us that night.
Another hiker followed us from the trail to the camp site we had selected. It became clear that he wanted to be part of our group. The young man was a foreigner and appeared to me as being Japanese. Since I have spent almost 15 years working with Japanese expatriates, I was pretty sure this man was from Japan. So, I spoke to him in Japanese (I know just enough to get me in trouble) as he stood in the middle of our camp. I first asked him if he understood Japanese. He was extremely surprised to hear his native tongue being spoken by some white guy in the middle of the wilderness but he replied with, “hei!” (“yes”). I smiled at him and then asked if he understood English. Again his reply was, “hei!” At that point I reverted back to English and said, “Good! Because I’ve used up most of the Japanese I know!” We both laughed! We made the proper introductions and I wish I could remember our guests name but I suspect he’s forgotten mine too.

The story I enjoy telling happens at dinner time. It just so happened that I had brought some bags of instant Miso soup from Trader Joe’s (the best!). So when I made myself some I made an extra cup for him (like everything else, I brought extras). I gave it to him with excitement because I was sure he did not have any with him so this would be a treat. As I walked away my excitement faded to trouble as I then realized that in the Japanese custom my gift must be repaid with a gift in kind. I looked at my buddy Mark and said, “I blew it! He’s going come back with some food for me and he can’t really afford to give up his food supply for me.” Sure enough, soon our guest walked to our group with a full bowl of Japanese noodles, enough for everyone. My heart sank but I encouraged everyone to eat some so as not to offend our fellow hiker. He continued the generosity later that night around the camp fire as he pulled out a bottle of wine! We were amazed! The bottle alone had to weigh at least pound, adding the wine made that bottle a small anchor. We happily obliged with the rational that we were helping to lighten his load. The next morning at breakfast we explained to him that we were on our way home so we wanted to give him our extra food, which we did. I gave him the remaining two bags of Miso mix and several others gave him a good portion of drink mix and dehydrated food. At one point, when we were taking farewell pictures he said in his broken English, “I take these pictures to show everyone at home of the friendly American hikers!” Well, I show you now the picture of the friendly Japanese hiker that made our last night in Yosemite a special one.
(L-R: me, Dave and our friend)


Saturday, July 29, 2006
We broke camp and said our farewell to our Japanese friend and started up the trail to Half Dome. After a short hike we veered off the path and ditched our packs in the woods so others could not see them. Then back up the trail to Half Dome. There were spectacular vistas of the valley as we hiked. We also saw some strange sites. Tourists, of all types, hiking the trail in their street clothes; Hikers with no water bottles; and very young children suffering up the trail. What are people thinking?!

We made the cables about 9:00 in the morning. The last part of the climb is crazy and cannot be made without the cables (unless you're a lizard). The cables were empty for the most part and we took our time as we clambered up the sheer granite side of Half Dome. Without the cables there is no easy way to make the summit. The picture on the left was taken right before we started up the cables which can be seen behind us, just above Jerry's head.
(L-R: Dave, me, Eric, Mark, Don, Jerry & Mike)





The view from the top was just plain exhilarating! The picture on the right shows Mark (L- with one arm up), me (C- both arms up) and Don (R- both arms up). The others in the picture are not part of the group.

We lingered for a couple of hours, taking pictures, calling home, resting/napping and I spent a lot of time contemplating just how magnificent it all was.

The morning turned to afternoon and the troop reluctantly gathered the supplies we had and headed back to the cables for our decent back to our hidden backpacks. To our shock we were faced with a very strange and potentially dangerous problem. The cables were now full of people, it was a human traffic jam! I’m not talking about the “slow n’ go” of a full but moving freeway. I’m talking about a total traffic jam where there was a total logjam of “bumper to bumper” people with no one making progress. While people at the top were slowly exiting the cables, twice (or maybe three times) as many were starting up the cables. The view was utterly scary!
I first attempted to go down inside the cables but it quickly became clear that those stuck in the middle needed to hang onto the cables and therefore were reluctant to let go to let me pass. So I ducked under the cables on the south side (away from the valley floor) and scampered down on the outside, clinging to the cable the best I could. Half way down I came to a young woman who was in a panic. She was quietly suffering as she stood hanging on the cables with people directly in front and behind her. She was having difficulty breathing because of the exertion and highly anxious to get off the side of this mountain of granite. Her tears gave away the fact that she needed to get out of the situation. I offered to help her down but she did not want to go outside of the cables and her family continued to encourage her to continue on. So I left her and headed to the bottom. The picture here was taken immediately after I got down. SCARY!

We began congratulating ourselves for making it to the top and back in one piece. Next to us were several young couples that were doing the same thing. It was just a natural progression to extend the good wishes to each other so high-fives continued through our group into the assembly of young couples. Only time would reveal that this “chance” meeting would eventually play out as a way for God to show His grace and protection. After a quick rest at the bottom we were on our way down to find our backpacks.

The group and I traversed down the side of Half Dome and in doing so passed a large assortment of curious hikers, most of which appeared to have just gotten off the tour bus from Disneyland. As we approached the JMT we found our “secret hiding place” and loaded our packs on our backs and carried on towards the valley.

Later on in the day, while on the JMT we encountered one of the couples that we had celebrated with at Half Dome. The young lady (in her twenties) did not look well and her boyfriend seemed to be at a loss as to what to do to help her. So here come seven men, all of us having daughters, asking if all was right with her. Through tears she explained she did not feel well and worried she couldn't’t make it back to the valley. That’s all it took. The impromptu triage team went into high gear. The boyfriend was pushed aside (nicely of course) and we huddled around her peppering questions at her and feeling her forehead and back of the neck. The diagnosis was dehydration (they had run out of fluids at the top of Half Dome). We gave her fluids, pooled our drinking water and filled their empty Gatorade bottle. Several food bars were handed to them. We instructed them to rest in the shade for awhile and then slowly make their way back to the valley. With that we were on our way – next stop Nevada Falls.

Nevada Falls could not come too soon! The lower elevation meant hotter temperatures and the constant train of people on the trail made this part of the trip forgettable. But at Nevada Falls we stripped to our shorts and splashed away. For a bunch of responsible husband, dads and professionals we sure did have a blast splashing each other like little boys!


The dip was refreshing and the warm sun allowed us to drip dry our clothes as we rested on the flat rocks along the Merced River.

We stayed until our clothes were dry and started to pack up. I had just pulled my backpack on when the couple we had helped stumbled to where we were. The young lady was worse off then when we left her. She was not sweating and after a minute of rest began to dry-heave. The Dad Brigade went back into action. Miraculously Dave’s cell phone connected to 911 and we were able to get information to the operator before the connection was lost. A second call confirmed that 911 had our information and had already passed it to the Yosemite Ranger Station, and then the signal died. A third try was successful and we were informed that help was on the way. While we waited for help we prayed for her and comforted her the best we could.

Less then 20 minutes had past when the first EMT Ranger came upon us. His backpack was a mobile emergency room of sorts. He started to take her vitals and began to prepare to administer an IV. By this time the young lady was laying on Mark’s sleeping pad which he gave for her comfort and she was nervous and shaking. Then a second Ranger came and she brought oxygen! The mask was slipped on the young woman’s face, this seemed to help relax and breathe normally. At this point the Dad Brigade turned back into backpackers and loaded up our burden for the final hike down. As we said good-bye to the couple a third ranger joined the rescue team. This was comfort to us as we headed across the bridge over Nevada Falls.

The hike down was steep. It is a relentless struggle of keeping your footing and trying to hold back gravity, which pulls your load down the hill. The steep incline did not make for a restful descent at all. Next came Vernal Falls and a needed rest. We decided to take the Mist Trail which is short but potentually more hazardous due to the constant spray off the falls. The steepness did not give us relief and our descent became a crawl as we secured each step before making another one. We finally reached the bridge that crosses the Merced River and a look back at a distant Vernal Falls. We rested here, took pictures and then continued down the hill. At this point the human traffic increased and the path had turned into a single lane road of sorts. As we got closer to the valley floor the dirt road became paved. I couldn't help but chuckle to my self as I passed mothers pushing baby strollers up the path. Once on the valley floor the crowds were thick and we turned toward the Trailhead Parking Lot next to the Upper Pines Campground. At one point we passed a bus stop and as we did the young lady we had helped was standing there with her boyfriend waiting for the bus. She was doing just fine! The IV pumped fluids back into her body and one of the rangers walked her all the way down. But they didn't take the Mist Trail and so they beat us to the bottom. It was a fitting close to the hike that day.

At the Trailhead Parking Lot the group reassembled for congratulations and farewell. After cleaning up and changing clothes, we went into Oakhurst for dinner and then drove all the way home. I arrived at my house around 3:30 in the morning.
It was a wonderful trip and the one that infected me with the backpacking bug.

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